Garden HighPro PROFAN Ø 100 mm – duct extractor fan 107 m³/h
Available in 3 models
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Ça pousse dans le bon sens
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The extractor is the lung of your grow setup. Without it, it's impossible to evacuate the hot air and humidity that accumulate in your space. Whether you're growing in a 60x60 cm tent or a 2m² closet, choosing the right extractor determines the success of your harvests. We're talking about flow rates in m³/h, static pressure, and above all, maintaining stable climatic conditions.
A good extractor does much more than just suck out stale air. It creates a constant airflow that evacuates heat from the lights, reduces ambient humidity, and renews CO2. Frankly, it's the difference between plants that just exist and explosive growth. Centrifugal models offer high static pressure, perfect when you add a carbon filter that slows down the flow. Axial extractors, more affordable, are suitable for simple setups without too much resistance.
Temperature regulation becomes a breeze with a properly sized extractor. No more 35°C spikes that stress your plants. Fresh air enters through passive or forced intake, hot air exits through the extractor. This permanent circulation also prevents stagnant air zones where fungi love to develop.
Calculating the necessary flow rate is mathematical: space volume x 60 (air changes per hour). For a 1x1x2m tent, count on a minimum of 120 m³/h. But beware of pressure losses! A carbon filter can reduce the flow by 30 to 50%. A bend in the ducting means another 10% lost. It's better to over-provision.
Noise level matters greatly indoors. Centrifugal extractors are generally quieter than axial ones at equivalent flow rates. Some models go below 35 dB, others go up to 50 dB and more. For an apartment, opt for soundproofed versions or add a soundproof box.
Connectivity also influences your choice. 100mm diameter for small installations, 125mm for standard, 150mm and more for large volumes. Check compatibility with your ducting and carbon filter before ordering.
For a 2m³ tent, the basic calculation gives 2 x 60 = 120 m³/h minimum. But that's without accounting for pressure losses. With a carbon filter, count on 180 to 200 m³/h to compensate for resistance. If you add bends in the ducting or a significant length, go up to 250 m³/h. The idea is to have a margin to maintain effective air renewal even with all accessories connected.
Installing the extractor outside the cabinet effectively reduces perceived noise in the grow space. Vibrations are transmitted less, and you can more easily add sound insulation around it. However, you lose space and need to provide solid support. Inside, it's more compact but potentially noisier. Centrifugal extractors perform better than axial ones in both configurations. Also, consider silent blocks to decouple vibrations.
With a carbon filter, the flow loss varies between 30 and 50% depending on the model and the filter's condition. A 200 m³/h extractor can drop to 120-140 m³/h with a clogged filter. Opt for centrifugal extractors that maintain their flow better under constraint. Oversize by at least 50% compared to the theoretical necessary flow rate. A speed controller allows fine adjustment according to the filter's condition and climatic conditions.
Air leaks kill extraction efficiency. Use metal hose clamps at each connection, never just adhesive tape which eventually fails. Ducts should be taut without kinks or overly tight bends that create turbulence. For connections between duct and extractor, add sealant if necessary. Regularly check connections, especially after the first few days of use when everything settles.
A carbon filter should be changed every 12 to 18 months depending on use and ambient humidity. Signs include: reduced extraction flow, passing odors, visible dust on the carbon. For fabric pre-filters, a monthly vacuum cleaning is sufficient. Some extractors have washable integrated filters that are cleaned every 2-3 months with lukewarm water. A clogged filter causes the extractor to overheat and reduces its lifespan, so it's best to anticipate replacement.
Available in 3 models
Available in 2 models
Available in 3 models
Available in 3 models
Available in 2 models
Available in 3 models
Available in 3 models
Help & advice
About Extracteurs — click a question to see the answer.
The extractor is truly the lung of your indoor grow. Its primary role is to evacuate hot, stale air from your grow space and replace it with fresh air. This helps regulate temperature, control humidity, provide the CO2 necessary for photosynthesis, and eliminate odors. Without a good extractor, your plants would quickly suffer from heat stress and an environment conducive to diseases.
To calculate the necessary airflow, it's quite simple in theory. I multiply the volume of my space (Length x Width x Height) by a renewal factor. Generally, I recommend an air exchange rate of 30 to 60 times per hour. So, if your tent is 1m x 1m x 2m (i.e., 2m³), you'll need an extractor capable of handling between 60m³/h and 120m³/h. Don't forget to add a safety margin of 20-30% to compensate for losses due to the carbon filter or ducting. I explain the importance of ventilation in more detail in this article.
The extractor's power should be directly related to the volume of your tent and the heat generated by your lighting. As I mentioned, I calculate the tent's volume and multiply it by 30 to 60. For example, for a 60x60x160 cm tent, the volume is approximately 0.57 m³. I would therefore aim for an extractor of at least 30 to 60 m³/h, adding my margin. For a larger tent, say 120x120x200 cm (2.88 m³), I would go for an extractor of at least 150 to 200 m³/h. Remember that the presence of a carbon filter reduces the actual airflow by 20 to 30%.
Yes, if you're growing odorous plants, I strongly recommend using a carbon filter with your extractor. It's essential for neutralizing odors and maintaining the discretion of your grow. To choose one, I make sure it's suitable for the airflow of my extractor. The filter's airflow should be equal to or slightly greater than that of the extractor. Physical size is also important so that it fits into your space. A filter that's too small will quickly become saturated, while a filter that's too large will be oversized and unnecessarily expensive.
In practice, I see both installations, but I generally advise installing the extractor inside the tent if space allows, especially if you're using a carbon filter. This allows it to be connected directly to the filter and optimizes odor extraction. If space is too restricted or if you want to reduce noise inside, you can install it outside, connecting it to the tent with ducting. In this case, make sure the ducting is well sealed and that the carbon filter is properly positioned inside the tent.
The main difference, as its name suggests, is the noise level. A classic extractor can be quite noisy, which can be a problem if your grow is near a living space. Silent extractors are designed with insulating materials or special motors to significantly reduce operating noise. I highly recommend them if discretion is a priority for you. They are often a bit more expensive, but the acoustic comfort they provide is well worth it.
A common mistake is choosing an undersized extractor. This leads to poor heat and humidity management. Another mistake is neglecting the maintenance of the carbon filter, which needs to be replaced regularly. I also often see installations with ducting that's too long or has too many bends, which significantly reduces the actual airflow of the extractor. Also, consider fresh air intake: a good extractor must be accompanied by sufficient air intake, whether passive or active, for optimal air exchange.
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